Barrels, tacos, and sunburns: your crazy ride around Mexico’s coast.

Getting into the waves in Mexico is not the same as putting your foot in the pool at a nice hotel. Your hair will get salty, your teeth will get sandy, and you’ll probably feel bad about things you did in the sun. But every drop of sweat is worth it when you ride that first glassy head-high wave. Anyone who has surfed in Mexico knows that it’s not for the faint of heart or the picky eater. Click here.

Let’s begin in Baja. Imagine fog wrapping over the cliffs in the early morning and a cold wind biting at your wetsuit. The Pacific here is playful and changes its mood with the breeze. Some mornings you paddle out to shoulder-high waves, and other times a rogue set will remind you who’s in charge. During the off-season, it might be lonely—just you, pelicans, and that one man who always seems to know where to find the best spots. Baja includes beach breakers, point breaks, and even some reefs if you want to risk it. The tacos after the session? Every peso is worth it.

Zoom in on Veracruz and Guerrero to see places that are less famous but just as passionate. Waves come out of nowhere and go away just as suddenly, so people are quite protective. First, buy a round of cervezas. Then, and only then, you might get a hint regarding which cove to paddle. There is a real sense of camaraderie; not everyone is trying to become a YouTube celebrity. If you’re lucky, someone might give you tasty tamales between sessions.

Then there was Puerto Escondido. Just the term makes knees weak. This stretch of Oaxacan beach has humiliated surfers even before Instagram knew what a “wipeout” was. Morning glass gives way to barrels that are taller than your rented SUV. Paddle out? Sure, but keep in mind that even good swimmers sometimes wash up with a smile and a gasp. On the beach, stories get bigger than the waves. “Did you see that last set?” “No, I’m too busy dodging flying boards!” Respect is like money here; it goes faster than sunblock.

Crowds might be hard to figure out. Some beaches are full of people learning how to wax their boards for the first time. Others turn into silent playgrounds for experienced chargers who thrive on the unspoken rules. There are stray dogs running along the beach, palm trees rustling in the late breeze, and the air smells like salt and limes. There are constantly people exchanging surf stories over spicy fish, pulling sun-bleached boards back to the van, and laughing over the one that got away.

Don’t think too much about the details; just pack light and surf hard. The coast of Mexico can be wild, calm, fun, or punishing all in the same day. Bring wax, zinc, and jokes because no one wants to be a sore surfer with parched lips and no punchline. The surf, food, and craziness welcome everyone who wants to have fun, whether you’re chasing monsters or learning how to pop up.

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